Tuesday, December 23, 2008

First night at site

I was reading this compilation of short stories and essays written by previous Peace Corps volunteers before I left for Africa. I remember reading about a girl who ran after the Peace Corps van her first day at site shrieking, “I’m not ready yet!” Oh God, I thought. Poor thing.

At this point I couldn’t relate more.

Yes, there are some volunteers that have been itching to get to site. Some have been at home since the first day they set dusty feet in their new villages. During the last two weeks of training, I went on a personal conquest to find volunteers who felt the same why I did: panic about being dropped off at site. I did fairly well. The closer time got, the more willing volunteers became to talk about what was before us. “The truth is,” Kimmie keeps telling me, “these next few months are going to suck. They are going to be terrible. But there is a reason why everyone isn’t joining the Peace Corps. It’s really hard.” Few people are able to remind me that I am here for a purpose quite like Kimmie. “Just think of the person you are going to be in two years. You have to experience this first.”

I arrived at site by 10am with the TSO (Tamale sub office) driver and a mattress. I carry as many of my bags as I can; Mohammed follows with pink mattress on head. We shove it through my yellow door and quickly realize it is far larger than my bedframe. I have no water, no desk or shelf, no door to my porch/kitchen, a mattress sprawled on a bed frame and a whole lot of stuff with no where to go. “Well, are you going to cry?” Alhaji asks. I shake my head and blink. He really asked me if I was going to sweep. But crying was more plausible if you ask me. Um. Well. No. I can’t even look in my room right now. I have to go…

I walk over to the clinic, swallowing tears. I know the midwife isn’t crazy about me, but at least she speaks English. The name of the game for this week is getting through it. Make the time go by and try to spend that time with actual people. When I arrive at the clinic there are 5 nurses there, most new to me. I introduce myself and sit and stare at them, as they say to each other in Dagbani, “Jeez, is she just going to come in here and stare at us all day? Gash.” I found Sister Beema, the midwife, who seemed more excited to see me than I thought she would be. “Why are you here before Christmas?” she asks. Because I was really hoping to spend the holidays with people I don’t know, maybe even somewhere where they don’t celebrate Christmas. Somewhere really hot too. I shook my head and blinked. Because of the election, they want us to stay at our sites. Are you a Christian? Yes I am, I’ll be celebrating in Tamale.” Somehow, knowing that this quiet woman shared my faith became overwhelmingly comforting.
Suddenly everyone was on their feet. Two men came in speaking in loud English. Must be important men if they aren’t going to stoop low enough to speak the local language. I still don’t know exactly who he is, but when I introduced myself he tells me he was the guinea worm big man. The biggest guinea worm man there is. Oh, great to meet you, I’m working with the Carter Center.

“The Carter Center works for me,” he bellows, tilts his head and tries to burn me with his eyes. Well, guess that means I work for you, heh heh.

Out of nowhere, an American camera crew comes out of the bushes. I don’t know who they were filming for and I tried to sneak away several times. I almost made it, until they needed a group shot. “Hey, Mariah. Come!” the big man ordered. “You are part of this health team.” Straight to the heart big man. Maybe he does have a soul.

I manage to eventually sneak away with my counterpart, who I am pretty happy to see. The man is growing on me. Time to do something about the living situation. Abukari and Alhaji ask me how I am going to sleep on the slumped over mattress. “I don’t know. How do you suppose I sleep?” I think a little bit of insanity crept into my eyes, that or tears. Either way I think they finally realized the extent of the stress I was going through. Before I knew what hit, Abukari was frantically sweeping my room, Alhadji was sudding up my water barrel and some stranger pulled a spare desk out of Alhaji’s room and into the courtyard to dust off. Now we’re getting somewhere. As Abukari spent the next half hour tirelessly filling up my water barrel by himself, I decided it was time to get my things in order. First things first, I put up the string of Christmas lights my dad sent me (thanks daddy, that meant so much to me). Now what? I filled my mug with sangria. It’s five o’clock somewhere, right? For the next few hours I scrubbed my pastel window panels and walls. Futile, its Harmattan, but I was desperate to keep busy. Then I took over the latrine. There were fist sized spiders and lizard droppings everywhere. I shrieked, destroyed a spider web, shrieked destroyed another spider web and ran. The day was not even half way over. This is going to be a long two years.

Hannah calls me, my closest neighbor. “This was too good to text.” Oh yea, what happened? “Some woman comes over with a big moving bag, and I’m thinking, this must be another chicken. She asks if I want to buy it and opens up the bag. It’s a deer! I asked what she thought I needed a deer for, and she’s like, you will feed it and it will grow. Ha! I almost bought it too! Imagine! A pet deer!” Hannah is one of those volunteers who was born to be at site. That’s really funny Hannah. “How are you doing?” Well, I didn’t cry until 3. I hardly left my room today, is that okay? “Yea. That’s perfectly fine. I stayed in my room a lot too.”

It’s only 5. I suddenly remember that Cynthia made me a small envelope filled with little notes, labeled with different dates to be opened throughout the next two years. She was the hardest to leave. We have spent these last three months laughing and crying and gossiping, grappling with our roles as volunteers, talking about home and how much it hurts to be here sometimes. Some people are placed in your life; they are not there coincidentally. Ama Cynthia is one of them.

First note, first day @ site: “Afiya. It is true that those we meet can change us, sometimes so profoundly we are not the same afterwards, even unto our names. Love, Ama”

That day will come. In some small, small ways, it already has.

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Politics Shmolitics

As all of you know (yea right), on December 7th, Ghana had their presidential election. Which, by the way, was far more exciting than the presidential election that you suckers had to experience in the states. The two major political parties here are NPP, Nana Akufo-Addo and NDC, John Atta Mills. As elections usually go in these parts, every region has already claimed that their candidate of choice as the new president months ago. “Because everyone is voting for Nana Akufo-Addo.” Really? Everyone? Do you know anyone outside this town? Anyway, the election came real close, but neither party received over 50% of the votes. The voter turn out was incredible, at 70%, which I think is higher than the US. At three in the morning post election, I was sure that NPP had taken the gold; Old Tafo had erupted into nonsense (OT needs little occasion to reek nonsense all hours of the night). However, Nana Akufo-Addo only won 49.13% of the vote. There will be a run-off election on December 28th.

There have been pockets of violence throughout Ghana, which are actually very minimal for an African election. There have been about 20 election related deaths. One of the hot spots for violence is Tamale, the city closest to me. As a result, our new Country Director has all us Peace Corps volunteers on standfast during the run-off. This just means that we are to stay at our sites and be aware of what is going on. No biggy.

Except that standfast will be from December 24th through January 2nd. Why did Ghana decide to have a run off election between two of our biggest holidays? And just 2 weeks after we arrive at our sites? Because they love when we wallow in our misery (which PCV’s do very well). So, the plans to meet at our sub office for Christmas cookies, music and presents is a no-go. I’m only slightly devastated to spend Christmas in my Muslim community. By myself.

That is just to say that if anyone would like to splurge on a calling card and call me on Christmas or New Years, I will love you forever and ever amen.

Llamame: (including country codes) 011-233-241-317-580


I wish all of you a wonderful and snowy Christmas and a crazy New Years. You are all in my thoughts daily. I miss you more than hot chocolate. I love you more than Christmas cookies.

Saturday, December 13, 2008

Mariah swears in
















This feeling is eerily familiar. Marching down a grassy path to the beat of the marching band. Waving to a few hundred family and friends, nervously giggling amongst ourselves because all eyes are on us. I feel like I am graduating from college all over again. As I pass the stadium adorned in the American and Ghanaian national colors, it dawns on me; it’s not just passing the language and technical tests. It took me over a year and a half to get here.

I am officially a bona fide Peace Corps Volunteer. It is about time.







family

I love my mom. And how she embraced me when we first met and told me I wasn’t allowed to cry. I love her because of the tears in her eyes when I do. I love her because she brought me into her room, closed the door and tied three smooth strings of gold beads around my waist and told me I was now a woman. I love her because she claps her hands and sings a little song (“Afiya! Afiya!”) when I finish a whole meal and tells me one day I will have a fufu belly that resembles her own. I love how she stops whatever she is doing in the morning to sit with me while I drink my tea. That hour when everyone else has left for work and school, that hour is our own. I love when she reminds me that after raising five boys, I was the daughter she has always been waiting for.

I love my dad. I love when he sticks his head in my window before the sun comes up, which is right above my head, and asks, “Why are you still sleeping?” I love him because of the pride in his shoulders, resulting from his respectable career. I love him because he scrunches his eyebrows and reminds me that Kofi and Yow are nothing but trouble. I love when he cracks a smile when I dance. I love that despite the troubled look on my mothers face when I tell her I will be home late, he smiles and tells me to be careful and have fun. And I love that moment every morning, when he walks out of the compound sharp as a knife, shined shoes and stiff tucked in shirt, stopping only to look over his shoulder to say, “Afiya.” Yes daddy? “I am going.” And he nods and goes on his way.

I love Kofi. Because once the sun has set, every Ghanaian looks just about the same to me, but when Kofi smiles I can find him anywhere. That smile is more contagious than the common cold and can charm his way out of anything. I love him because he dances more than he walks. I love him because he tells me I am beautiful. I love when I ask where daddy has gone on Friday nights, and he smirks and raises his shoulders. I lean in and wink and motion with my fist that he may be at the bar, which is followed by a thunder of laughter and a nod of agreement. I love that I know just by the scowl on his face that he is in trouble again. I love that although he is only 13 years old, he would fight just about anyone or anything to keep me safe.

I love Yow. I love him because when I come home and say “Hi, Yow.” He replies,“I am fine.” I love his chipped front tooth and the day I found out it was the result a failed attempt at the crab walk. I love that it took him a month to warm up to me, but now he yells “Afiya!” when I come home, as if it’s his new favorite song. I love when Kofi pulls up a stool behind me as I do my homework and works his thick fingers through my short choppy hair in an attempt to produce braids, and how Yow never ceases to inform me that it looks terrible. I love when Kofi gets in trouble at school and in turn has to weed the entire grounds. Yow would never dream of letting him do it on his own.

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